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Lady Carletane considered it for a moment. “I have not quite the funds this quarter,” she said. “Perhaps by early August, my pin money allowance will cover it.”

“Nonsense,” said the Duchess. “I shall order it and it will be an early wedding gift. I have a little put back for just such an occasion.”

“Are you quite sure, Your Grace?” Lady Carletane fretted.

“I am certain,” the Duchess reassured her. “We need to get these young people married and the bride cannot approach the altar in some old rag.”

Evelyn ducked her head to hide a smile and busied herself with putting the pattern books away after marking the indicated pattern. The attitude she displayed was so typical of the Duchess, as was her kindness. But it would never do to let Her Grace see that she was amused.

Evelyn was just standing up and turning around when Miss Notley made a sort of harsh little cry and crumpled up in a heap on the floor.

“Good heavens,” gasped the Duchess. “I do not think we should wait until tomorrow. Mrs. Swinton, send for one of the footmen and have him go for Dr. Alton right away.”

Evelyn was already tugging on the embroidered bellpull. “Certainly, Your Grace.”

When the footman arrived, he was sent straightaway for the physician. In the meanwhile, Mrs. Swinton and two of the maids lifted Miss Notley and laid her on the daybed that stood near the Duchess’ comfortable chair.

“We must undo her stays,” Lady Carletane said. “She thinks that she is too fat, and she always has her maid do them up tightly.”

Evelyn carefully undid the lacings on the sides of Miss Notley’s gown. Then she loosened the laces on her corset. Sure enough, when the tight lacings were undone, Miss Notley took a deep breath.

“Here is my hartshorn,” the Duchess said. “Wave it under her nose. It is warranted to be stout enough to rouse the dead.” Evelyn dutifully waved the small bottle, which reeked of ammonia, under Miss Notley’s nose.

Miss Notley gasped and turned her face aside trying to escape the fumes. Evelyn pulled the bottle away and handed it back to the Duchess. “I believe she is coming round,” she said.

When Dr. Alton arrived, he looked into Miss Notley’s eyes, then held a sort of curved horn to her breast and listened to the narrow end of it. He tut-tutted, then he made some notes in a leather-bound notebook, and finally sat down on one of the spindly occasional chairs that were in the room.

“Tell me, Miss Notley,” he asked gravely, “where do you get your face powder?”

“Why, I am not really sure,” she replied. “My maid gets it for me.”

“And your lip and cheek paint?” he asked.

“She gets that, too,” Miss Notley said.

He pulled a long face. “Do you wear it often?”

“Well, yes. Daily,” Miss Notley said. “If I am going out, a little kohl to outline my eyes.”

“You had to loosen her stays, did you not?” he asked.

“To be sure, we did,” said Lady Carletane. “She is a good girl and always keeps her corset tightly laced.”

The physician looked as if he had eaten something sour. “Come here, Mrs. Swinton.” She approached him obediently. “Now turn around. No, keep turning,” he said, as she turned her back to him. “What do you see, ladies?”

The Duchess was the first to speak. “Well, she is a trifle plump,” Her Grace commented.

“Not at all,” said Dr. Alton. “She is a fine figure of a woman, neither too plump nor too lean. It is a grave mistake that many of our young ladies are making when they strive for a fourteen-inch waist, a fair complexion, rosy cheeks, and red lips. Fourteen inches is not at all natural.” He frowned at Miss Notley.

“But I don’t have a fourteen-inch waist,” she protested. “It’s eighteen inches, nearly twenty if I do not lace tightly.” Distress showed plainly on her face.

“I do not doubt it at all,” he said. “But, my dear, you are going to have to turn loose some vanities if you wish to have good health. First, let us wash away the paint that is on your face so I can see your real complexion.”

“No, please no,” Miss Notley sounded dreadfully distressed.

“Yes,” said the physician. “Please, yes. Do you wish to live or not?”

“I do want to live,” Miss Notley said, “but I also wish to be beautiful.”